Old Film Cameras NZ Galleries
Hi, there is manual control of aperture and one can use MG-1 camera without battery by adjusting correct aperture to 1/500 shutter speed. I have tis camera. Regards,Valdis.
Hi , My very first camera was a Zorki 4K which is also a rugged old camera worth buying . Four years ago , I decided at the age of 54 that I should get a hobby , and the one I chose was Photography . I bought a Nikon F80 and a Yashica Mat . The F80 was quite straightforward to use , I could stick it in ‘ P ‘ Mode and away I went , but the Yashica Mat was a completely different kettle of fish . Actually , the writer who said it was ‘ cool ‘ to have one on your person is spot on , it’s a conversation piece as well as a camera . I paid £47.00 for mine and at first I thought ‘ What have I done ? ‘ , but I finally took it out for a spin….the results weren’t good at all , but I knew absolutely nothing about Photography , it was more hope than skill . Then I had an operation on my spine which took more than 8 months out of my life , then in Dec 2012 I contracted sepsis , suffered multiple organ failure , lungs , kidney [ I’ve only got one ] , then the heart . The Doctors told my Wife that I was going to die , but somehow I pulled through , the Doctors called me ‘ The Mystery Man ‘ meaning I should have died , but didn’t [ someone was definitely on my side ] . That took nearly 12 months out of my life . This weekend I put another 120 roll of film in the Yashica and took it to Aviemore , I took my Nikon D7000 to act as the meter , along with my D80 and Nikon F90 . After my spinal op , I took Voluntary Redundancy from my job and started collecting cameras and books , I have over 30 film cameras and 2 digital ones . The Yashica is one of my favourite cameras , not only does it look good but it’s also a medium format camera which will give results which are on par with any digital camera . Buy one , you won’t regret it .
Thanks for your informative article on the electro 35 Allan. Lucky enough to find a clean and working GSN in a thrift store with bonus lens shade and soft case for $20. US. Stacked 4 1.5v button cells shored up with cardboard and a spring. Seems to work OK dry firing so this one goes out to play tomorrow.
Nice quality rangefinder for my collection.
Hi Dan, Hi i had buy last saturday a beautiful Yashica Electro 35 cosmetcally percfect, shutter sounds good and has no pad-of-death. Also diaphragms works good. I had built a 6V battery with 4 L44.
No signals, no works, no led, no arrows inside viewfinder and no test leds also. Have any idea???? What can i do?
Thank you so much
The camera CAN be used without a battery, just on the ‘Sunny 16’ rule, the defult shutter speed is 1/500 so choose a 400 ISO film and basically use the pictures on the lens barrel as a guide, simple! Just remember the shutter speed will always be 1/500.
Hi Dan, I’ve got a 6 volt 476A battery in mine. I don’t know about the 4 x L44s but I’ll assume you have them the correct way around with positive facing the outside, and they are charged. My apologies for mentioning the obvious! Without the battery the shutter runs at its full speed of 1/500th of a second only. Provided the battery is ok the next likely fault is a broken electrical connection or a dry solder join. The Yashica Electro 35 is an excellent camera with a great lens and the aperture priority auto-exposure does a very good job provided it is working – even on long exposures. It would probably be cheaper to purchase another camera rather than send it in to be repaired. Please let me know how you get on. I hope you can get it going.
Cool another survivor! How are you going now? I’m just about to get into medium format but not sure what to buy. Would love a Hassy of course but I think I will opt for a rolleiflex or yashica to start with.
Hi Geoff. Its great to hear from you. Doing well I think. From what I was able to study up on the internet the Yashica-Mat lens is on a par with the Rolleicord. While the Rolleiflex lenses are superior to both. Never having had a Rolleiflex I can’t confirm that. You can get a good Yashica-Mat off TradeMe for only about NZ$150 nowadays. I got my Yashica-Mat from Photo & Video in Christchurch over 20 years ago. The Yashinon 80mm f3.5 taking lens is very clean and super sharp. It takes tremendously crisp photographs with excellent colour saturation and contrast. These cameras were used by many wedding photographers in the late 50s and 1960s. There are certainly capable of results that are much better than 35mm film cameras. For best results a tripod and shutter release cable should always be used even in bright sun light. This slows the process down of course. You only get 12 shots on a roll which causes me to think a lot harder about each shot. Which is a good thing. In my opinion an old medium format camera it is well worth the effort to use – especially when on holiday. It is quite exciting when you get your developed film back from the shop. Good luck with it Jeoff. When you do get your medium format camera please send us some pictures for the site and let me know how you get on.
I have recently- the past four months – got back into photography. I started about 12 yrs ago with an om 1 and then had a problem with the focus ring and gave that camera away instead of thinking to repair it. You might say I have come on with a mild bordering on moderate case of G.A.S. I can’t help it, I love the variation and multitude of cameras out there, especially film ones. I’ve zeroed in on the fixed lens rangefinders recently, and have a Konica auto s2 and hi-matic 7s in the mail. I can’t wait for them to arrive! I also have the digital Fuji x100 coming as I was loving the picture quality I was seeing from it while reading up on it. It seems inevitable that I will have to learn my own darkroom techniques and buy a good scanner if I am to make use of my film cameras because of costs and the increased lack of availability of these services. The 7s is chunky! I just got a k1000 and believe it may way 50-70 grams or so less than the 7s, and it feels like a brick. I look forward to experimenting with it. Thanks for your info on it here, it is appreciated. Zoran from Fort St John in British Columbia, Canada
I have found in a cupboard after doing a clean out with my mother in law a black yashiga MG-1 and was wondering if it’s worth anything if I wanted to sell?
Nick Melbourne Australia
Hi Nick, It is certainly worth something if it goes. It won’t be much though. They sell on Trademe.co.nz in New Zealand for between NZ $20 – $50.
IS there any service centre for MG-1 CAMERA model in tamilnadu
I have no idea. Someone might know. If you live in New Zealand it is actually a good idea to send Pentax cameras to England to be serviced and repaired by Harrow Technical. They seem to have a good reputation. Sending your camera around the world to have it fixed seems odd but can be worth while for more expensive cameras.
Hi Allan, I recently bought a Ricoh 500 GS off trademe in NZ, do you know where i can get those battery needed here in Auckland? Loved the article, cheers.
Hi Simon, fortunately the Ricoh 500GS uses an LR44 button cell. There are probably the easiest batteries to find. Supermarkets, The Warehouse, Noel Lemming will all have them. A lot of those Two Dollar Shop places sell a dozen, or so, on a card. These will be much cheaper. Let me know how you get on.
Hi Allan, just discovered that it uses the same battery as my Ricoh Kr-5. Unfortunately the light meter and autoexposure system doesnt seem to work even with new battery in it. Oh well still a solid camera and I’ll look forward to shoot with it in manual mode, just need to find a external light meter now.
Are you sure you have the battery the right way up with the writing facing outwards when the battery is in the camera. Also be sure to check the battery isn’t flat (exhausted). You should be able to use your Kr5 as a light meter.
Hello again, I actually bought a Yashica Electro 35 GT off ebay recently, and it’s supposed to arrive relatively soon (I hope). It should be in working condition, if not i will have to ask for advice again 🙂
I really like my Electro 35. The lens is excellent. The exposure system is surprisingly good even in poor light with very long exposures. I also need to repair the “Pad of death” problem when I got the camera as the shutter would only fire at full speed. Let me know how you get on with it.
Not being picky, BUT just to help future MG1 owners, it does have manual control of the aperture too, f2.8 through to f16.
You are quite correct Steve. The MG1 does offer the photographer manual control of the aperture. However you cannot choose your shutter speed as the camera does it for you. I have corrected the text above to reflect this. Thank you for letting me know.
Quite interesting! I am wondering if there are more than one versions of that camera. I own two of them with one having the same focusing tab just like that in your photos and another one with a larger one.
I just picked up the silver bodied 7ii for $15.00. everything seems to work, even had film still loaded.
I am sunooj I have one minolta7s2 Iam selling my camera..if u need contact me..all working..
That was a great lucky find. Well done Erik.
I was given one Canon QL 19 and was wondering where could I find information about it. You comments were very helpful, including the battery reference. I will clean it, install the battery and take some pictures. Thankyou very much.
Thank you for the review, it cleared a few things for me.
The camera is likely made by Cosina Japan. According to your experience it suffers from the same problem as lower cost branded Vivitar 35ES and Revue 400 SE sister cameras – the lens front feels loose and wobbly and images have varying sharpness likely caused by this flaw. Vivitar and Revue do not have manually adjustable aperture unlike Minolta, only shutter priority semi-auto is available.
This means that switching from Vivitar to Minolta could solve manual aperture problem but not wobbly lens. I have a mention about it and a sample image if I may link to http://rokkorlab.net/cgi-bin/csvsearch.pl?&search=photo0034
Apparently a fix on the lens wobble on Vivitar could likely work the same on Minolta.
Had one of these for years – think it is still in a drawer somewhere. Fantastic little camera. Took thousands of photos, neg and pos, and virtually always was spot on. Loved it. Even used it as a backup at a function I was at. And yes, I am a Kiwi. Must dig it out and replace the felts and GET ME SOME FILM and use it again.
Hi George, yes the little Ricoh 500G is one of my all time favourites too. The metering system always seems to be spot-on.
I have studied the lens wobble problem on the Vivitar 35ES (Revue 400 SE), which is the sister camera to Minolta 7sII (lacking manually selectable iris).
It appears that the whole lens and shutter assembly is loose where it attaches to the rangefinder and focusing mechanism. Quick fix would be inserting three very thin spacers between the lens and the rangefinder housing from behind the camera – you could open the back cover and see that the rear lens element wobbles with some play where it should be tightly fitted. Better and more professional fix requires disassembling the lens and shutter mechanism.
I also made tiny modification to the Viv to achieve manual aperture with two selectable f-stops, f3.5 and f5.6. It should be enough for most situations. This means that battery is not needed for photography on modified Viv or Revue making it equal to Minolta (with fewer aperture selection).
More on the website linked in the previous post.
According to Minolta 7sII service manual the lens and shutter assembly is locked in place with just two drops of glue. This is the same on the Vivitar 35ES (Revue 400 SE) and some traces of glue are still visible when viewed from behind. When the glue has given up the lens and shutter assembly wobbles with the amount of play that exists in the mechanism.
So the good news is that the lens wobble can be fixed.
The bad news is that it is not a minor task as the lens and shutter assembly has to be removed from the camera. This means removing the nicely installed leatherette on the surface of the camera body.
Hello, is there anyone who can help me to find service manual for Minolta Hi-Matic 7sll ? Thank you.
This is a beautiful camera! I got an Electro 35 GT by searching on my dad´s old stuff and cleaned myself. I also changed the light seals and the POD seems to work well (at least until now). All the electronics work perfect. I do have a problem now… the focus ring is practically stucked! I managed to put very little drops of lighter fluid which made it move a few days, but now again, stucked. I couldn´t find any info on how to lubricate the ring, so I guess I should take it to a tecnician.. Did you have that problem too?
Hi Manuel, My apologies for the delayed response to your comment. I somehow missed it. It sounds like something might be stuck under the ring – a tiny bit of sand for example. Is the screw at the bottom in place? I hope you can fix it as the Yashica Electro 35 is an excellent camera. I’m amazed at how accurate the aperture priority auto-exposure is for such an old camera.
I bought a Canonet QL19 in good condition at a Camera Fair.I have finished a 36 exp. film.I pressed the rewind button in the base,but the film did not come free from the takeup spool;I wound on a further exposure,with the same result.I have tried pushing the rewind knob in further,no change. Naturally I am eager to see the results.Any suggestions would be welcome.Thanks
My first inclination would be to take it to a camera store. They may be able to open the back and disengage the spool without light ruining the film.
I recently aquired a Yashica MG1 Black camera. 35mm with the 45mm 2.8 lens. I also havevthe fitted leather case with it and was wondering what it is worth. The serial number is 61008521. It is in excellent condition.
Hi Tonya, It probably isn’t worth very much. The black ones are always the most popular especially when in good condition and fully working. My guess is it would be worth less to sell than a higher spec black Yashica Electro 35. Its value in New Zealand on Trademe.co.nz would likely be something like NZ$50.00 perhaps a bit more!
Hi, Where can I purchase the film for the Yashica Mat camera, here in NZ. Also, where can I get in developed. I live in Nelson, so assume I might need to send it away? Looking forward to hearing from you, Ana
Hi Ana, the speed at which film is disappearing from stores in New Zealand has accelerated in the last couple of years. Many shops that once did their own developing no longer do so. I recommend you try Photo and Video in the Merivale Mall, Christchurch. Here’s the link. https://www.photo.co.nz/the-lab/film-processing/ They still do some film processing in store as far as I am aware.
Hi Allan. Visited Christchurch recently after many years away and it is sad to see so many landmarks gone. I seem to remember a fairly large Irish pub a short walk from the Cathedral but can’t remember the name. Looks like it’s all gone now, along with a lot of the shops around the square. Hope the reconstruction speeds up a bit. Best wishes, Phil Elliott
Hi Philip, I know what you mean. Some parts of inner Christchurch are now so different from before the quakes that I get quite disorientated. It can be hard to get your bearings or remember what was on that site before. Sad really.
Hi! Great review, thanks! How about shooting with the flash? Did you ever try?
Yes, the flash works well though isn’t very powerful.
Hi Allen, interesting write up. I have four different Canonets, a QL17, a Junior, the first 19 and, as of today, a QL19 III-G. With the exception of the Junior I really like them and agree with everything you said about them. The Junior is a zone focus camera and not really my thing. Also, good to see NZ featured in the photos, I live in the UK but my family are scattered across your fair country, with my dad living near Nelson, and sister near Lower Hutt. Regards Stuart Lloyd
Hi Stuart, I appreciate your comments. In New Zealand you can purchase a Canonet QL19 (new model) for very little. Yet the QL17 (new) goes on Trademe.co.nz (the leading New Zealand site like Ebay) for crazy money. I only have an older version of the QL17 but I would be surprised if there is any real difference between the QL17 (new) and the QL19 (new)? Regards Allan Burgess
Hey i have a 20 year old 35mm f3.5 yashika camera i want to know more about..
I am interested in buying a Voigtlander Bessamatic which has the selenium cell metering system. My question is on this and any old camera that has a selenium cell. can I override the selenium cell even if it is working or not? In short will the camera still work if I treat it like a total manual camera, setting everything up myself? Please let me know your thoughts!
I have two MX cameras and am looking for a pair of MX Motor Drives; the Ni-Cd Battery model M. Any ideas where to look? I’m not having too much success myself.
Thank you for this page – I had a Ricoh 500G back in the ’70s in the UK – used it often, taking this photo – https://goo.gl/DUHAQm it won a competition – entered by a friend unbeknownst to me!
Hi Vincent, I really like the little Ricoh 500G. It’s one of my all-time favourites. Up until the mid-70s I was still at school. Living in Christchurch at the time, I could have taken heaps of pics with it of buildings and other landmarks that were lost in the big 2011 earthquake.
Fantastic lenses on these rigs.
Ha, good memories.. my Dad owned one which went all over the world taking thousands of slides, all half frame but photo’s were just fine! As a teen I used it all the time too 🙂 lots of slides per film made it cheap to run 🙂
Hi Rick, I remember back in my film days when I was more thoughtful about each shot mindful of the cost of film and developing. Unlike today with our digital cameras where we just keep firing the shutter without having to worry about that.
My better half has just purchased a Yashica 124g and is half way through her first roll of film, cant wait to see how the photos turn out! The TLR’s all though outdated and superseded still hold a charm and uniqueness that attracted us to these cameras. Film photography is not a cheap game these days. Our 124g set us back $300AUD although it looks brand new with perfect lens the $300 price tag still stings. Throw in $10 a roll for film plus developing… But we wouldn’t have it any other way – it’s just simple good fun and a great addition to our collection. The better half plans to use this along side her digital options for her wedding shoots and portrait sittings. We also have a pentax 6×7 and it will be interesting to compare the quality of images between these two cameras!
Hey Mike, i love my hi-matic 7s. Although it’s my heaviest range finder, (my olympus RC is my smallest and lightest) i like it the best ! I don’t think you know what heavy is, my RB67 weighs 8 1/2 lbs. The minolta weighs nothing !!! The range finders are great for street photography.
I have just returned to analogue photography after about 20 years, and just took delivery of a Pen EE-3 off TardMe. Its a lovely little work of engineering and I am looking forward to running some film through it.
I’m interested – what are you using to scan your film?
Hi Ashton, I’m scanning my film with an old Epson Perfection 2480 flatbed scanner. The key to the scanner is the VueScan 9.5.90 software that I use to operate it. You can download it from hamrick.com I’ve owned quite a few scanners over the years, and scanned large numbers of slides and prints. The VueScan software is one of the best purchases I have ever made. Amazingly, it works far better than the software that comes bundled with most scanners. Good luck with the Olympus Pen EE-3.
Hi Allan – Ashton here again. We seem to have similar tastes in analog camera gear!
Along with my Pen ee3 I now have a QL19 “New”. I’ve spent the last couple of days getting it freed up. Initially, the ASA setting, shutter and aperture were a bit sticky and it had no battery. It’s all going fine now and I’ll be running some film through it this weekend.
I want a UV filter and hood for it – can you confirm the filter ring size please?
For my sins, the next arrival will be a Minolta Hi-matic 11. I’m looking forward to comparing the two cameras…
I like your website. Nice and clean, with cool old cameras and actual images from the camera. I will read your articles as I have time. Photography has become an almost obsession with me. It’s the pastime I enjoy the most. Keep up the good work.
Great little site…I’d love to know which camera you used to take each individual photo.
The shots taken around Wellington were taken on my 2004 Nikon D200. Mostly, snapped with an old manual Nikkor ED 180mm 2.8 I particularly enjoy going on the extended road and camping trips where I have the time for more leisurely shooting on film.
thanks for the review! would you recommend this camera or the Olympus Trip 35? they seem to be quite similar, especially the lens.
Hi Jesse, that’s a good question. The Canon A35 Datelux or the Olympus Trip 35? The lenses, on paper at least, appears to be very similar. When seen side by side the Canon looks more modern. The A35 Datelux is, of course, a rangefinder while the Olympus Trip is zone focus. I guess there would have been many more of the little Olympus cameras made than the Datelux. Personally, I would prefer the Canon if forced to choose!
Thanks for a helpful article. It’s been about ten years since my high school photography class, so I’m figuring out how to use my Pen-D from the various internet sites.
Regarding the side lever, “You have to guess the distance to the subject and set the focus with a lever on the side of the lens.” Could you clarify a little more about this? I can’t find any explanation about the numbers on the side. .8, .9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 2, 3, 5, infinity, and a letter “m.” Is this distance in meters? When looking through the viewfinder and moving the lever up and down I see no difference.
Hi Edie, the distance scale on my Olympus Pen-D is marked in feet, while yours is marked in metres. There is no parallax correction, split screen rangefinder, or exposure indication in the viewfinder. The selenium meter is not coupled to the shutter in any way. In other words, the view through the viewfinder on your Olympus Pen-D is working as it should. The important thing is to remember to set the distance scale lever each time before taking a shot.
Provided the camera has a manual setting yes you can. Some don’t, like the Konica EE Matic S for example. If the selenium cell metering system isn’t working on that camera there is no way to set the controls manually.
I was recently gifted a Yashica Mat under the understanding that it was broken and would make an interesting ornament if anything. It turns out, amazingly that it works perfectly fine! I’ve had about 95% success rate with my photos…under exposure causing me the other difficulties as I’m only learning how the camera functions as I go.
I recently got a roll back and found that one of my photos had double exposed. The effect was pretty cool and I’d love to play around with it some more but I’ve no clue how I did it! I know that at the time I had cocked the auto-timer so I think that had a part to play.
My model is as far as I can tell, the same as yours. No light meter… I’m assuming it’s from 1957 based on the font used etc…
Please let me know if you have info on how to create double exposures without re-rolling the film on the spool etc.
Thanks so much,
Hi Stephanie, as far as I can tell it isn’t possible to take double exposures with the Yashica Mat. I guess you could rewind your film back onto the spool, transfer the film onto another spool and run it through the camera again. The Yashica Mat has been designed to prevent accidental double exposures. I see in a discussion on Flickr that this model sometimes produces double exposure on the first frame, but this would be the result of a camera fault.
Hi.. I have one of these, in very good condition… Would you put a monitory value on it?
Hi Imelda, not very much I’m afraid. Even one in mint condition wouldn’t sell on Trademe.co.nz for more than about NZ$20.00 I would think.
“Automatically sets aperture” O would say automatically sets shutter. Aperture is set up manually.
Miki, you are quite right, of course. Thanks for pointing that out.
I’ve shot a few fixed lens rangefinders. Himatics, canonets, Soviet models and a yashica electro 35 (rubbish in my opinion). My ql25 is my favourite (even kept it over a ql17 giii – though I think I had a bad copy).
The quick load system is a breeze. The rangefinder patch is brilliant after a clean and rewind is super smooth.
One huge upside is that the meter works in manual mode. Something the ql17 giii doesn’t do. So you always have a meter.
This is one camera I really love. More than some of its more popular counterparts.
Hi Ricardo, I agree 100% with everything you have said about your Canon Canonet. Very well made too.
Do you know the filter thread size? I have the F, not the Datelux, but very similar cameras. I have 49mm filters, but they do not fit. Thanks!
You’d install a “virtual” light meter, some great light metering apps are available for free on smartphones. With all the possible parameters, metering from front/back cam or directly from the sensor, ISO/DIN, aperture set … I also use an antique posemeter but I when it’s important, I prefer to double check with a modern tool.
i bought it for 10 $ in iran.the black color.but i cant test it because 35mm film not found in my country
Hi (From France) I begin to repair au HiMatic 7S. The arming system turns in a vacuum therefore impossible to trigger. And I don’t know how to start arming. Do you know repair information sites, videos, manuals, parts sales (other than You tube and ebay) I also miss the cocking lever. thank you so much jean pascal
When I first met my wife in 1975, she owned a Pen D, which I also used from time to time. Fabulous little camera with an incredible lens. I’ve recently been digitising old slides, and came across some taken on the Pen D. When I zoomed in to do some spot corrections, I realised that despite the smaller frame, the resolution was actually better than the slides I took around the same time on my Yashica SLR. The D was the most expensive of the compact Pens, and it shows. Now that we no longer use film, I gave the D to a camera museum in Melbourne, where it is on display.
Hi Allan! Just wondering if you have an answer for this question (i cant find any info on the web from my research). I recently got my hand on a couple of Yashica Electro 35 (originals) in very good conditon. Now the reason i am asking is because there are slight differences between the two, even for a same model. For instance, camera 1 has an ASA of 12 to 400 with a transparent cover and magnifying glass on the nob/wheel while the other one camera 2 has an ASA of 12 to 500 and no magnifying glass. Second, the Yashica logo on the front is also a bit different, camera 1 has a “box” around the “yashica” name, while camera 2 does not have a box around it. The atomic logo is the same though on both with a white background as it should on a Yashica Electro 35. Third difference is camera 1 has only the word “turn” at the metering lights (the yellow and red one), while camera 2 has the normal “slow” and “over”. Fourth difference is the focal length lettering on the lenses. Camera 1 has a larger gap/distance between the numbers while the other camera 2 has more close to each other. A few more minor differences what i cen see as well is different color on the “battery check” pice that screws on the body, the one camera has it in black while the other has it in silver. From any other aspect they are the same both cameras and i love the series, i also own a GS and a GT. So about my questions, is it normal with these differences between cameras of the same model or is it unusual? One camera has also 7 digit serial while the other 8 digits. Both made in Japan.
Mould or fungus on the lens elements is often caused by ever-ready camera cases made from leather: first the mould develops in the case and then jumps to the lens with time.
The camera stored in the case lying on it’s back is especially vulnerable if not stored with a lens cap on.
The same goes for rangefinder mirrors and viewfinder elements.
Hi have a Minolta Hi Matic 7S, the auto button is too depressed and the exposure timing ring too hard to move, is necessary to press auto button to change exposure timing allways? how can I fix it? thanks in advance
There is a botton on the side of the lense, near the centre, – the side below the winder – push it in, while turning, shutter, or aperture rings, to move into manual mode.
If you were meaning, that button is not working, then you may be about to learn how to repair a camera.
HI. I accidentAlly opened the back of my camera mju1 and it reset to zero( I was in shot 21 out of 36) what does it mean? Did it really reset to zero or is just continuing in the 21? Thanks
You will lose a couple of frames on the roll around where you opened the back from the light hitting the film but otherwise keep shooting. Light probably hit some of your exposed film as well.
Comments are closed.